Goddesses in the Machine

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actress
archives
billie burke
black and white
Category=AGC
Category=AKTF
Category=ATF
cinema history
clare west
dresses
early hollywood
eq_art-fashion-photography
eq_bestseller
eq_isMigrated=1
eq_nobargain
eq_non-fiction
film still
forthcoming
gilbert clark
glamour shot
golden age
gowns
lady duff gordon
lucille
madame francis
metro goldwyn mayer
MGM
movies
pre-code era
rko
starlet
visual identity
warner brothers

Product details

  • ISBN 9780300292701
  • Dimensions: 216 x 260mm
  • Publication Date: 08 Sep 2026
  • Publisher: Yale University Press
  • Publication City/Country: US
  • Product Form: Hardback
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An engaging exploration of fashion in silent film that uncovers the innovation, artistry, and entrepreneurship behind Hollywood costume design

In the first decades of the twentieth century, enterprising designers recognized the importance of dress as a powerful tool for expression within the new silent medium of film. As the definitive exploration of fashion and costume in early Hollywood, Goddesses in the Machine reveals an untold story that begins in a period when actors wore their own clothes on-screen and concludes with the birth of the professional movie costume designer. Although most American silent films have been lost and costumes from the era rarely survive, with new scholarship and compelling archival materials, this publication brings to light a dazzling range of cinematic innovations and reconstructs a nearly vanished world.

Featuring pioneers of film like Billie Burke, Irene Castle, and Valeska Suratt and of design like Lucile, Madame Frances, and Clare West, this book highlights the actors and designers—many of whom were women—whose work established a blueprint for modern movie glamour. It reconstructs their legacies through garments, accessories, film stills, sketches, and printed ephemera. Essays by leading fashion historians, film scholars, curators, and Hollywood costume designers examine a variety of ensembles worn on film, from dance dresses engineered for movement to gender-bending silhouettes that challenged social norms. Together, they trace the political, commercial, and social contexts behind fashion on the silver screen.

Distributed for Bard Graduate Center

Exhibition Schedule:

Bard Graduate Center, New York
(September 18, 2026–January 3, 2027)

Michelle Tolini Finamore is a fashion and design historian, curator, and author. Emma Cormack is associate curator at Bard Graduate Center.