Israeli Career of Hummus

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A01=Dafna Hirsch
authenticity
Author_Dafna Hirsch
Category=JBCC4
Category=JBSL
Category=NHG
cultural appropriation
cultural studies
eq_bestseller
eq_history
eq_isMigrated=1
eq_isMigrated=2
eq_new_release
eq_nobargain
eq_non-fiction
eq_society-politics
food history
food industry
Israel
Palestine
settler colonialism

Product details

  • ISBN 9780253075314
  • Dimensions: 152 x 229mm
  • Publication Date: 03 Mar 2026
  • Publisher: Indiana University Press
  • Publication City/Country: US
  • Product Form: Paperback
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How did an Arab dish become an Israeli culinary passion? Less than a century ago, hummus and other Palestinian staples were often met with disinterest and sometimes outright rejection among Zionist settlers. Yet for modern-day Israelis, hummus has become a dish that is both everyday and iconic, intertwined with cultural perceptions of authenticity, indigeneity, and masculinity.

The Israeli Career of Hummus tracks how hummus has turned from an "Arab" or "Oriental" food into a national symbol and culinary cult in Israel. The Israeli Career of Hummus traces how hummus has turned from an "Arab" or "Oriental" food into a national symbol and culinary cult in Israel. Rather than regard culinary appropriation as a necessary outcome of land colonization, author Dafna Hirsch instead examines how changing gastronomic, economic, and political factors intersected with material and cultural production in a multilayered and socially stratified colonial context. Departing from the thesis of cultural erasure of hummus's Arab or Palestinian provenance, Hirsch shows how the Arab identity of hummus functions as a semiotic resource, which is sometimes suppressed and at other times leveraged to lend authenticity to hummus—and thus to its consumers.

Shedding new light on the sociohistorical process of culinary appropriation amidst settler colonialism and nation building, The Israeli Career of Hummus invites readers to consider the complex trajectory and multiple factors and mediators that transformed a humble staple into an emotionally charged and politically contested culinary icon.

Dafna Hirsch is an Associate Professor at the Department of Sociology, Political Science and Communication, the Open University of Israel. She is author of "We Are Here to Bring the West": Hygiene Education and Nation Building in the Jewish Society of Mandate Palestine and editor of Entangled Histories in Palestine/Israel: Historical and Anthropological Perspectives. She lives in Tel Aviv.

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