Sufi Lovers, Safavid Silks and Early Modern Identity

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A01=Nazanin Hedayat Munroe
Author_Nazanin Hedayat Munroe
Category=AB
Category=AKT
Category=GTM
Category=NHG
cross-cultural patronage
early modern dress studies
eq_art-fashion-photography
eq_bestseller
eq_history
eq_isMigrated=1
eq_isMigrated=2
eq_nobargain
eq_non-fiction
figural silk iconography analysis
Islamic art history
khamsa
mughal
nizami
Persianate material culture
safavid
Safavid textile history
silk
Sufi symbolism

Product details

  • ISBN 9781041186717
  • Weight: 460g
  • Dimensions: 174 x 246mm
  • Publication Date: 01 Dec 2025
  • Publisher: Taylor & Francis Ltd
  • Publication City/Country: GB
  • Product Form: Paperback
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This book examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of “Layla and Majnun” and “Khusrau and Shirin” that appear on early modern silks. Attributed to Safavid Iran, the publication proposes that dress fashioned from these silks represented Sufi ideals based on the characters. Migration of weavers between Safavid and Mughal courts resulted in producing goods for a sophisticated and educated elite, demonstrating shared cultural values and potential reattribution. Through an examination of primary source materials, literary analysis of the original text, and close iconographical study of figural designs, the study presents original cross-disciplinary arguments about patronage, provenance, and the socio-cultural significance of wearing these silks.

Nazanin Hedayat Munroe is a textile and fashion historian specializing in luxury silks from the early modern Persianate world. She is currently Director of Textile Technology and Assistant Professor in Business and Technology of Fashion, NYC College of Technology - City University of New York.

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