Whiskerology

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19th century america
A01=Sarah Gold McBride
american cultural history
american society
american studies
asian american hair
Author_Sarah Gold McBride
beards and mustaches
beauty standards
black hair politics
bodily identity
bodily presentation
body and identity
body politics
Category=JBCC
Category=JBSF
Category=JBSL
Category=NH
Category=NHTB
cultural belonging
cultural history
cultural identity
cultural symbolism
eq_bestseller
eq_history
eq_isMigrated=1
eq_isMigrated=2
eq_nobargain
eq_non-fiction
eq_society-politics
facial hair history
gender and hair
gender norms
gender studies
hair and gender
hair and race
hair fashion
hair history
hair texture
hairstyles
historical fashion
history of beauty
history of grooming
history of hair
identity and appearance
identity markers
Karen Halttunen Confidence Men and Painted Women
Kathleen Brown Foul Bodies
Martha Jones All Bound Up Together
masculinity history
material culture
national identity
native american hair
physical appearance
race and hair
race science
race studies
self presentation
Shane White Stylin'
social norms
social status
Stephanie Jones-Rogers They Were Her Property
Sven Beckert Empire of Cotton
victorian beauty standards
whiteness studies
women's hair

Product details

  • ISBN 9780674249295
  • Weight: 640g
  • Dimensions: 156 x 235mm
  • Publication Date: 03 Jun 2025
  • Publisher: Harvard University Press
  • Publication City/Country: US
  • Product Form: Hardback
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A New Yorker Best Book of the Year

A surprising history of human hair in nineteenth-century America, where length, texture, color, and coiffure became powerful indicators of race, gender, and national belonging.

Hair is always and everywhere freighted with meaning. In nineteenth-century America, however, hair took on decisive new significance as the young nation wrestled with its identity. During the colonial period, hair was usually seen as bodily discharge, even “excrement.” But as Sarah Gold McBride shows, hair gradually came to be understood as an integral part of the body, capable of exposing truths about the individuals from whom it grew—even truths they wanted to hide.

As the United States diversified—intensifying divisions over race, class, citizenship status, and region—Americans sought to understand and classify one another through the revelatory power of hair: its color, texture, length, even the shape of a single strand. While hair styling had long offered clues about one’s social status, the biological properties of hair itself gradually came to be seen as a scientific tell: a reliable indicator of whether a person was a man or a woman; Black, white, Indigenous, or Asian; Christian or heathen; healthy or diseased. Hair was even thought to illuminate aspects of personality—whether one was courageous, ambitious, or perhaps criminally inclined. Yet if hair was a teller of truths, it was also readily turned to purposes of deception in ways that alarmed some and empowered others. Indeed, hair helped many Americans to fashion statements about political belonging, to engage in racial or gender passing, and to reinvent themselves in new cities.

A history inscribed in bangs, curls, and chops, Whiskerology illuminates a period in American history when hair indexed belonging in some ways that may seem strange—but in other ways all too familiar—today.

Sarah Gold McBride is on the faculty in the Program in American Studies at the University of California, Berkeley.

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